Raa Meedhoo; priceless treasures of the “smiling people”

Destiny has a funny way of returning Love!

Nearly a year ago, “time” had invited me to the “roohi-safar” of my life. These were the months of my life that made me discover several realms of the nomad in me, which fueled by my passion for photography and traveling, made me discover several gardens “within my soul”, and helped me kill many phantoms loitering in them — my fears and insecurities.

For a good part of the year 2011, I have had the pleasure of being part of a team — of selected few from Maldives Architecture field — trained at Malaysia in ‘Architectural Building Conservation’ — a project initiated by Department of Heritage of Maldives. The project was one of their most significant projects — Coral Stone Mosques of Maldives Towards World Heritage Sites (UNESCO). Indeed, the name says it all.

The team was dispersed over 13 atolls — to survey and collect data from an architectural perspective of specific 21 (most dated) Coral Stone Mosques in the Maldives.

On the quest of a lifetime, my team partner and I began our journey almost as strangers, yet, returned as great “lovers” — lovers who found an abundance of affection for the people of Raa Atoll Meedhoo — the smiling people. 

Raa Atoll Meedhoo, belonging to Northern “Maalhosmadulu” Atolll, is an Island with a population of nearly two thousand “friendly faces”. One cannot help but fall in love with this island and its people. Kind and modest in their attitude the “smiling people” of Meedhoo, have for centuries guarded a priceless treasure — an Old “Friday” Mosque “Hukur-miskiyy” and a vast cemetery “Gaburusthaanu”. 

My soul’s longing is such that, there is nowhere else on earth I’d rather be, than sitting silently in a peaceful cemetery. As I kept spending hours in Meedhoo Old Friday Mosque and cemetery, this “very old beauty” kept humbling my soul and calming my heart; until so often my gratitude for every blessing of “life”, twinkled in my eyes — reflecting God’s kindest ‘Rehmat‘.

The old friday mosque is one of a kind, with its clay tiled roof and coral walls untouched. It is a priceless gem, we Maldivians own. Having had the blessing of visiting the mosque and cemetery back in 2007, this time  (in 2011) I was able to do a good comparison check. Very little had change, except the grass have grown wilder and the mosque a little older.

Here I share with you glimpses of the beautiful mosque that stands old, but strong. And also her “resting companions” from its silent cemetery.

frontal view (eastern side) of the “old friday mosque”. the coral stone walls and entrance steps are seen here. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

view from the western side of the “old friday mosque”. the well at the far end is still being used for ablution purposes. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

water well located on the north east corner of the mosque compound. here a part of the mosque main entrance can be seen with its coral stone plinth. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

the wall of the mosque are build with coral stone with no motar or plaster used. the stones are all cut in a way to interlock (tongue and groove system). unlike some old coral stone mosques, the plinth base of the mosque has moulds but no carvings. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

a seal “sikka” embossed on the coral stone wall (south) having inscriptions. this is a common feature found on most old coral stone mosques in the Maldives. often the seal contains the date and/or the name of the king who built it or renovated the mosque. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

traditional mosque ventilators “kathi-jaali” on the exterior walls (north and south). location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

the main entrance to the mosque and the small corridors “dhaala” on either sides. the main entrance door is a slidable timber door with intricate carving on them. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

small corridor “dhaala” on the sides. this space is also used to perform prayers. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

lacquer finished timber columns (with coral stone stumps) and beams have beautiful ornamental patterns finished in lacquer. noticeably, unlike other old mosque in the maldives, the beams doesn’t have Quranic verses written on them. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

center dome “laage” in the center of the mosque comes with beautiful ornamentations, and always finished with fine lacquer work. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

ornamental boards found inside the mosque building, having verses from the holy Quran written. the boards always are finished with fine lacquer work. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

the beams have beautiful ornamental patterns finished in lacquer. noticeably, unlike other old mosque in the maldives, the beams doesn’t have Quranic verses written on them. the yellow on the ceiling comes from a local dye wash. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

clay roof tiles and the roof structure. clay tiles were used in 19th century, before the extensive use of cement or corrugated roofing sheets. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

a broken piece of a coral tombstone found on the coral rubble “thelhigaa faaru” boundary wall of the mosque compound. this is a common sight in most dated mosques and old traditional houses. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

almost a complete tombstone, found on the coral rubble “thelhigaa faaru” boundary wall of the mosque compound. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

the dated cemetery showing part of the mausoleum “ziyaaraiyy” and old friday mosque at the far distance. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2007). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

a revered old mausoleum “ziyaaraiyy” in the cemetery. the most special feature of this “ziyaaraiyy” is the uniquely designed coral wall, surrounding the small “ziyaaraiyy”. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

a revered old mausoleum “ziyaaraiyy” in the cemetery. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

a dated mausoleum “ziyaaraiyy”. high walls of approximately 4 feet surrounds the ziyaaraiyy. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

a revered mausoleum “ziyaaraiyy” located somewhere in the middle of the cemetery. the design of the wall is rarely seen anywhere in the Maldives. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

the small mausoleum “ziyaaraiy” within the boundary of the main one. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

inside of the mausoleum “ziyaaraiyy”. with so little sunlight reaching inside this small ‘ziyaaraiyy” of about 3 feet height, (covered with a roof) newly sprouting life keeps company of the dead. two dried coconut lying on the ground witnessed of having been an offering made to the dead; a custom practiced by Maldives for centuries. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

a coral stone wall design / moulding above the entrance doorway of the mausoleum. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

a moon and star embossed on the rear wall of the revered mausoleum “ziyaaraiyy”. this symbol were particularly used by the royal sultans, raising questions as to why they are found on this particular ziyaaraiyy. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

an old tomb “bisthaanu” of a revered man. the tomb lies under two temple flower “gulsampa” trees. these trees are a common sight in much dated cemeteries. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

another small tomb “bisthaanu” in the cemetery. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

an intricately carved old tombstone made of coral stone, found in the cemetery. the pointed head resembles that it is of a man’s. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

an old tombstone made of coral stone, found in the cemetery. the rounded head of the stone means that it is of a woman’s. the inscription often have the deceased person’s name, phrases from Holy Quran and a date. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

detailed inscriptions on a coral tombstone. the inscriptions often comes with a date written above the arabic word “sanath”, meaning date. here the arabic letters 1333 can be seen clearly, referring to the islamic calendar. quite interestingly most old tombstone have dates starting from 13 hundred, raising the question as to when these type of coral tombstones were most commonly used. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

intricate carving on an old coral tomb stone found within one of the tombs “bisthaanu”, in the cemetery. during early days, often the royal family or well to do persons would have had their tombstones designed / carved prior to their deaths. and the more workmanship on the stone, the more prestigious his/her position in the society was. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

intricate carving on an old coral tomb stone. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}

intricate carving on an old coral tomb stone. location: old friday mosque & cemetery, raa atoll meedhoo (2011). photography by: mariyam isha azeez {mariyamboo}